All my guide books told me that the King is most revered and one should say complimentary things about His Highness to please the local population. Fortunately before I could spark a conversation about His most endearing qualities we were handed black ribbon badges to show our respect to His recently departed soul. This accounted for the black and white fabric adorning major buildings along my route to the hotel last night. A lucky save.
Breakfast took care of the morning at our retro 60s hotel. Given my gluten and dairy options I was able to enjoy fruit salad (tomato is definitely a fruit) and rice with chicken, accompanied by a couple of glasses of apple juice.
I rearranged my luggage so I had sun block and water with my camera in my handbag ready for the afternoon sightseeing, a second bag containing anything I'd need overnight and a third bag with everything else. The fourth and final bag contained British Gifts for the guide.
We met at the train station for lunch from the food court. What I took for aubergine turned out to be very spicy fish slices, but the chicken with ginger was more palatable with rice. A good meal for the equivalent of £1.
An afternoon tour of China town was run by three lovely ladies from SianRise. We piled three abreast in to three Tuk Tuks, a trike-cum-taxi that by the smell is running on under-powered two stroke engines. They set off at right angles to the three lanes of oncoming traffic. Once I'd prised my eyes open again I got my first proper view of Bangkok. As a water based city there were many decorative bridges spanning both rivers and canals.
On approaching our destination in China Town the heavens opened. You could spot the British amongst us, we were the ones without umbrellas & raincoats, or plastic bags upon our heads, delighting at the fact it was WARM rain!
Dodging from awning to awning we made our way to a Chinese temple. This one was dedicated to the Buddhist God of Mercy. The Chinese temples often have a school attached. We learnt that the Lion guardians are always one male, one female and you can tell the difference because the female has one paw protecting her baby, whilst the male has one paw playing with a ball. I make no comment.
From the Temple we walked through the wholesale area of China town to the gold district, and to the oldest gold shop in Bangkok. Approximately 150years old and this business is still in the hands of the same family. The founding father was a silver smith but Thailand preferred gold so he changed tact and now his descendants display the Royal crest having produced gold for the King and even entertained the princess.
The shop is still producing some gold in the traditional methods, by hand rather than machine. Skilled gold craftsmen are few and far between, and on graduation each is given his own bench and set of tools which he'll keep and add to for his working life. Whilst skills are passed on, the tools are not so this shop contains the half dozen benches and equipment of past masters and thus houses a small museum.
We saw a lump of gold being heated by blow torch before being poured in to a gold bar. From here it would be hammered flat, and then put through a mangle until small enough to fit through what is best described as a spaghetti spoon, to produce a shiny thread of gold that can be used for jewelry. The gold was over 95% pure, making it very yellow (and therefore not to modern British tastes).
We continued to dodge the rain, passing through the retail and then the paper areas of China Town. A network of little two room shops (one for stock and the other out the back with a stove). The majority of goods were displayed in front of the shops under awnings creating small aisles. Tricky enough to negotiate with umbrellas and trolleys, but made even more precarious by the mopeds that use them as thoroughfares.
After a second Chinese temple we neared the end of the tour with a sample of 'teas', I went for Chrysthanum which was very sweet. Apparently the lemon grass was very earthy and there was another that was bitter like coffee. Finally we had an early supper of Dimsum or, in my case, crab cakes. And a second helping to take away, for enjoyment on the night train.
Our party having grown during the afternoon we took 5 Tuk Tuk back to the station, reclaimed our bags from Left Luggage and filled any empty spaces with water and snacks (after a futile attempt to find a bar). And then on to the night train.
A double seat each became cabin beds in second class accommodation. If it hadn't been for the lights on all night it would have been very cosy. Grateful my bags had been well organised I was able to retire pretty easily. Tired and probably still a little jet lagged I benefited of 10-years London commuting - have seat will sleep. And there passed the following 11hrs.
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